• Hi All,

    Has anyone ever had a P0340 on their Gen 2 Cube?  I understand that on K12 Micras (and therefore Gen 2 Cubes) that this could well mean a stretched timing change throwing the timing out enough to trigger the sensor to flag the issue.

    I'm tempted to change the Cam Position Sensor first as this is a £40 part.  If that doesn't work, it's time for the chain to be replaced - grit teeth and get out the chequebook :-(

    What do you think to an independent mechanic versus Nissan dealer here?  Generally I'd use the former, but if there are lots of specialist tools for this, is Nissan better?

    Thanks,
    Stu
  • like you say it may be fault with sensor dose the code clear or not on command their is a way to test chain i have to see if i can find it again .
  • Thanks for that, good link. As well as the code there's been a couple of lumpy cold starts that cleared themselves. Haven't noticed noisy running though Will go and stick my head under the bonnet shortly.

    http://www.justanswer.com/uk-nissan/3t540-22-36-5.html - interesting thread.

    I haven't tried clearing the code but will do so and let you know.

  • Ok, code is clear.  Have been for a brief 5 mile run and still off (but will check to see if anything is pending).  

    I had a listen in the engine bay with the engine warm, but nothing sounds untoward to me - though all that means is that it sounds like it always has.  No odd rattles or squeaks.


  • There are lots of posts about the timing chain issue on the Micra sports forum Micra.org.uk - look in the K12 mechanical section.

    I'm currently going through the pain after my engine light came on a year ago - I cleared code but it has been running noisily with poor economy since so I've taken the plunge now my engine swap plans fell through.

    If yours sounds okay then it might be alright for a while. :)
  • Thanks for that - I'll have a read of the Micra Sports board. I'm just going to keep an eye/ear on it for now.

    Sorry to hear yours is suffering and hope you get it sorted as painlessly as possible. Did your engine light return at all?

    Cheers,
    Stu
  • Like you say a lot of talk on engine changes but the chain can be done in car. a bit tight .the only one thing about belts i like they are designed to be changed in most cases.and cheaper to do .unless brke even then not bad . The new cars are doing 100 thousand /10year . So the little Nissan engine chain idea is a little poor.people say after market chain kits are poor .to me the Nissan chain is to. I had a 1.6 mk2 escort when scraped It had 243.000 rusty Hope all the little cubes out there soon feel better
  • Like you say a lot of talk on engine changes but the chain can be done in car. a bit tight .the only one thing about belts i like they are designed to be changed in most cases.and cheaper to do .unless brke even then not bad . The new cars are doing 100 thousand /10year . So the little Nissan engine chain idea is a little poor.people say after market chain kits are poor .to me the Nissan chain is to. I had a 1.6 mk2 escort when scraped It had 243.000 rusty Hope all the little cubes out there soon feel better
  • Cheers toaster.

    Stu, my engine light didn't return and when I ran it through nissan connect again it didn't show any error codes but I could tell from symptoms that it wasn't all there.
  • Thanks for that.  If ours starts getting noisy and/or running badly, I'll get the tensioner checked first.  

    Some good threads on the Micra forum - have a much better idea of what to look for now.

    Cheers,
    Stu
  • So...

    CEL back on - P0340 again, but this time with a bonus P1110.  Not looking good for anything other than a timing chain change.  Looking at the manual, I'd give it a go myself, but by the time I book two days off work and buy an engine crane and the parts, getting it done elsewhere looks good.  A mechanic I use has said he's done a Micra for £700ish (but I need to confirm if this was with parts or not).

    :-(
  • Hi may be worth checking
    P1110 NISSAN - Intake Valve Timing Control Bank 1

    Possible causes

    - Faulty Intake valve timing control solenoid valve - Intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness is open or shorted - Intake valve timing control solenoid valve may be faulty - Crankshaft position sensor (POS) may be faulty - Camshaft position sensor

    Tech notes

    Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.

    When is the code detected?

    When there is a gap between angle of target and phase-control angle degree, the valve will stop working and the Engine Control Module (ECM) will trigger the P1110 code.

    Symptoms

    - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Possible engine lack/loss of power - Posssible engine rough idle

    P1110 NISSAN Description

    This mechanism hydraulically controls cam phases continuously with the fixed operating angle of the intake valve.

    The Engine Control Module (ECM) receives signals such as crankshaft position, camshaft position, engine speed, and engine coolant temperature. Then, the ECM sends ON/OFF pulse duty signals to the intake valve timing control solenoid valve depending on driving status. This makes it possible to control the shut/open timing of the intake valve to increase engine torque in low/mid speed range and output in high-speed range.

    The intake valve timing control solenoid valve changes the oil amount and direction of flow through intake valve timing control unit or stops oil flow. The longer pulse width advances valve angle. The shorter pulse width retards valve angle. When ON and OFF pulse widths become equal, the solenoid valve stops oil pressure flow to fix the intake valve angle at the control position.
  • £700 sounds a lot for a chain swap? >:P
  • Thanks toaster.

    Paul - don't Nissan charge £1k for this? I would guess the Indy garage would take longer at a lower rate due to lack of familiarity/specialist tools..
  • Probably right but sounds a lot, especialy when someone on here got an engine swap for £250 labour? At £50 an hour then it would get 14 hours, I would of thought a chain could be done in 4 ish?
  • Dose seam a lot as the chain gear can be done in car its tight but do able .if that labour is right very steep
  • Mine was £740 labour (including welding a protection plate on the oil sump)

    Kit with new intake sprocket was £225 plus P&P.
  • Sounds crazy money that for a chain, glad I know my mechanic well.
  • Hi,

    My mechanic's comment of £700 was based on a Micra - I understand that engine has to come out for them.  Still awaiting confirmation if this is just labour or if it included parts.  If both, I'd guess at £50/hr for 10 hours work which doesn't sound too bad.

    Would love to do it myself but just don't have the time and as this is supposed to be our 'practical', 'reliable' car I can't afford it to be off the road for too long.

    I think I'm going to monitor it for now as the car is running fine.  If it starts running badly I'll look into it more.  Worst case of new engine is cheaper than getting the chain fixed which is nuts.

    Stu
  • Yeah it is an engine out job really.

    Some have it done it with engine in but it involves removing a link, dropping chain in, looping it around and then putting link back in.

    There are guards with bolts that are concealed if trying to do job with engine in - not attempted myself as in similar position to Stu in terms of getting it done quickly and efficiently.

  • Don't fancy the idea of splitting links TBH - I would always have a nagging doubt about whether the rejoin becomes a weak point.

    Thanks CUBED for the info on yours BTW - really useful to hear what people have paid.

    Is there any evidence of chains having snapped on these?  I'm thinking that as the tendency is for them to stretch that it is something that would happen fairly progressively over time (resulting in increasingly bad running as the timing starts dropping out) - rather than a catastrophic failure that you might get on a rubber cambelt.

     
  • It can be done properly in cube tight and no need to split chain so no need to worry about links and stuff as you can see all to do . Need to check for were remove cam box cover and look at adjuster to see how bad worn it is . On here somewhere there is a pic and stuff .
  • Thanks toaster.  So is it easy enough to get to the tensioner to view the adjustment?  Any idea what the tolerance is for max movement?  

    Tried to find threads on it here, but have never found the search to give useful results :-(

     
  • Have done this job before on a Vectra. It looks a similar job and about as much room. I had to take off the engine mount next to the timing cover and jack the engine up and down to be able to get access to all the bolts. I found one of the guide rails broken so it definitely needed doing.

    As a first time job all went ok and I would definitely give it another go just don't expect to complete the job in one sitting.

    I've followed the guide on the micra k12 site but tbh it's barely adequate. What's all that nonsense with the air hose all about?
  • I've only ever done a chain on my mk5 RS2000 with new head. Lots of room on those though so not sure about Cube.